Revision 25.02.06
(Tel nos. 05 46 23 xx xx unless stated otherwise)
Auberge des Falaises: Very convenient, just next door to the apartment.. The proprietor of the Auberge, M. Allias used to own our apartment. In October 2003 the restaurant was leased (and renamed L'Atlantide) to a new chef from the Loire and his family. It moved more "up-market"; the food was really excellent (but not large quantities). Unfortunately it reverted to being called Les Falaises in October 2005 and we do not yet know whether or not the very high standard has continued. At peak times you will need to book (Tel 29 16).
M. Allias' son has taken over the day to day management of the hotel, together with his partner, Nadège.
L'Escale: Located on the RHS of the road half way to Plage de La Grande Côte, this family run restaurant was probably the friendliest and least formal of the nearby Restaurants. They also have inexpensive options. They advertise that they are open all year round but in the winter are closed weekday evenings. They have a "fidelity card", but you have to go there 10 times to get your free meal for two so not much use unless you plan coming back or wish to generously leave it for someone else to be lucky. L'Escale changed hands in 2001 and there seems to have been a shift to quantity from quality. (Tel. 22 84).
Le Petit Poucet: Located about half a mile away up the coast, adjacent to the Plage de la Grand Côte, this is a Restaurant & Bar. There is a good pool table in the bar - price 10FF per game. Restaurant is to be recommended for a romantic evening watching the sun go down over the Bay of Biscay - best to book a window table in advance (Tel 20 48). Alternatively, you can watch the sun go down on the terrace with a cold beer or whatever.
By Plage de la Grand Côte there are other good eating places open out of season. Chez Bruno (Tel 35 85) is good for snacks and Le Grand Large has a good menu and interesting proprietors. Also with a good menu, Restaurant La Grande Côte (Tel 11 33) has interesting old photos showing its unique position before the last war.
Hotel Primavera: Also within walking distance, this is not cheap and you may need to book, but it is recommended for its views, food and wine list.
Auberge Les Métairies:A few miles inland at St.-Sulpice de Royan, this is a must if you like traditional French restaurants. Amazing value for money (eg 4 course "Menu du Jour" lunch including ½ bottle (or more) red wine for €13!! (2004)). Full of locals, this excellent and welcoming restaurant contrasts starkly with the less inexpensive seaside tourist restaurants. Wise to book to avoid disappointment. (Tel 04 39)
If you want an inexpensive meal within walking distance, Bar-Restaurant Le Courlay does a 3 course lunch including red wine for FRF57 (2000) - good simple French food. Both bar & restaurant are very popular with locals, so if you are walking, book first (Tel 33 04)
Bar la Perche, near the IntermarchÈ supermarket, also does a cheap menu which we found excellent, but a bit slow, the one time we tried it.
There are some nice little Crêperies in St. Palais; opposite the sea front are Les Quimperoises (Tel 28 41) and La Terrace (Our favourite, Tel 25 94) and in the main street is another called Crêperie Port Dauphin (Tel 13 49). (For crêpe enthusiasts, Le YAMS opposite the casino in Pontaillac is recommended.) If you like pizzas, Le Regina (Tel 11 40), opposite the sea front, is good (changed hands in 2004 with new "nouvelle cuisine" menu). The Nausica (Tel 14 78) has great views of the St. Palais bay, as does Chez Bob. The gourmet restaurant of Les Agapes (Tel 10 23) near the market is expensive.
A bit further on at Plage Nauzanne there are three restaurants. We have only tried La Nauzanne in the middle which is fine for gallettes or salads.
There are also lots of restaurants down the coast in Pontaillac (~2km) of which the best is probably La Jabotière (Tel 05 46 39 91 29) on the beach next to the Casino.
In Saujon we can recommend Le Thermalia (Tel. 05 46 02 80 62) in Place de l'Eglise.
Further up the coast in Brouage the Comptoire du Nouveau Monde has fascinating dÈcor as well as good food.
For devotees of good fresh "fruits de mer" a visit to the village of L'Eguille sur Seudre is recommended where you can enjoy superb "huitres" or "soup de poisson" at the Hotel-Restaurant du Port ("Chez Nadine") (Tel 05 46 22 83 13). Also in the port, La Cabane (Tel. 05 46 22 83 07) has a reasonable menu and a pleasant situation.
If you are visiting the picturesque town of Mornac, a good Creperie we can recommend is Restaurant-Crêpërie Le Moulin, rue du Port (Tel 05 46 05 59 36).
St MALO/Hirel Our favourite route from Portsmouth to St Malo requires that we need a stopover on the return journey. Sometimes we stay there a few days - there are lots of places to visit within a short drive, not least Mont St Michel and many breathtaking prehistoric sites. There are plenty of good hotels in and around the city, our favourite is the Hotel Kyriad (formerly the Bleu Marine, tel. 02 99 56 09 26) which faces the beautiful Sillon beach. There are lots of good restaurants nearby.
We have recently discovered an inexpensive gem of a place to stay, half an hour's drive from the ferry at the village of Hirel along the coast to the east. This is a "Chambres d' Hote" establishment (a bit like bed and breakfast but with good en-suite facilities and more privacy). It is run by Mme Hardouin (tel 02 99 48 95 61) who charges €38 for bedroom and an excellent breakfast. There is use of a fridge to store a picnic or a cold beer and a pleasant garden with picnic tables. The tabac/bar in the village is full of characters and does a great sandwich for lunch. Two nearby restaurants that we recommend are L'Escale des Bouchots (tel. 02 99 58 64 44) and Le Bistro de Vilde (02 99 58 77 77, Patricia & Patrick Rault). There is a wonderful view of Mont St Michel across the marshes from the bay at Hirel (called Baie du Mont St Michel).